July 24

Elmina castle was much larger and more impressive than Cape Coast. This one was built and run by the Portuguese and the tour guide was even more specific about the atrocities committed on the site. One disturbing though was how efficient the layout of the castle was for its purpose, with mess halls above the cells, tunnels to the loading docks, and a private balcony overlooking the female cell. There is a cannon ball at one end of the courtyard, where the women who resisted rape were chained. After a day or so in the hot sun they were made to lift the cannon ball. If they could not, they were flogged. I lifted it without too much trouble, but after a day in the hot sun with no food or water I imagine it must have been near impossible.

The tour focused very heavily on rape and cruelty, to really emphasize how terrible the conditions were.  But once again, the tour ended with an art gallery and gift shop! It really is quite a mixed message about what emotions to feel.


Our hotel in Cape Coast wasn't really close to anything that sells full meals, so we had to be creative with out supper. This is what I tried:

A quick demonstration of how to weave kente cloth: